…and then there are those that take time, patience, a healthy dose of seam ripping and the sewing gods to be on your side. These trousers fall squarely in the latter category!
Jacob is a trousers pattern by Belgian designer Sharon (aka Mamasha) at Zonen 09. Her patterns are designed exclusively for boys and each one is full of style, swagger and personality. I first wrote about her patterns here in my Top 10 list for sewing for boys and I’ve been hooked ever since. And, the best news for all of us non-Dutch speakers, is that these patterns are now available in English.
I was immediately drawn to the Jacob trousers pattern – nice to see a lovely flared leg in a sea of skinny-fit. They have been on my Autumn sewing list but moved swiftly to the top so that this pair can be entered into Sharon’s competition to find the most expertly crafted garment from her patterns. You can check out all the entries in the Zonen 09 Flickr Group.
Fabric – Oasis from Anyan and Yuwa Fabrics (Japan) purchased at Gent’s lovely de Stoffenkamer. Words cannot describe how much I love this fabric – it’s perfectly playful and quirky and the weight and drape is ideal for these trousers.
Size – I made size 104/age 4 for my almost-four-year-old. I was a little concerned that the flare would be a bit too extreme but, in the end, the fit through the waist, hips and thighs was spot-on (I just needed to take up quite a bit in the length).
Thoughts on the sewing process – I’m not going to lie, these trousers took some time! The pattern has many options for ranges of ability (no fly, faux fly, zipper fly with fly extension) and, as usual, I opted for the biggest challenge of full zippered fly with fly extension and open waistband. If you go for a faux fly with closed waistband, for example, you’re going to have a much easier ride. To be honest, I just wanted the practice with the zip and fly since the only other one I’ve ever done is for the Banyan shorts.
The pattern is very well drafted and the instructions are clear with lots of photos. I would advise printing the photos in colour if at all possible (a pain, I know – my printer always seems to need more ink…and those damn cartridges are expensive!). I printed in black and white and therefore couldn’t make out some of the details. This made the zip and fly extension tricky (I ended up pulling out my Banyan shorts pattern and kind of blending the two sets of instructions to make it work).
In order to personalise these trousers I made a few changes:
- I added piping around the front pockets. With such a busy fabric I thought the pockets would just get lost in the pattern so I used the piping to help define them. Well, that’s my excuse anyway – it may just be that I love adding piping .
- I made the front patch pockets in a double layer to add a bit more contrast. The inside of the pocket is bright yellow linen but I didn’t manage to get a photo of that…you’ll have to take my word for it!
- I used a contrasting fabric, the same yellow linen from the pockets, for the inside of the waistband.
- I added a double welt pocket to the back (the kid loves pockets!) with a different contrasting fabric on the inside (blue with white dots this time). You just get a tiny peek at contrast here but, boy am I proud of that welt! It’s only the second time I’ve attempted welt pockets (the first being for this post) and my trusty little video tutorial came in handy yet again!
- Because I added the welt pocket before looking too closely at the instructions, I had to omit the creases on the back of the legs.
These trousers are special. I love the fabric, I love the fit, I love how they turned out. They were not a quick-and-easy sew but I like the fact that my youngest has a pair of ‘real’ trousers and they were well-worth the effort. I’ve got two more pairs lined up already.
The Zonen 09 Competition is open until Sunday 15th September so you still have time to sew a pair up! How ’bout it?? Feeling inspired?!
Thanks for reading,